I'm curious about the physics of surfing (for no particular reason
other than curiosity... and note that I don't surf so I don't have
any physical experience to help me build intuition). Here are a few
initial questions that come to mind. If anyone sheds light on these
questions, they might lead to other interesting questions.
1. It appears that surfers like to catch a wave just before it
breaks. Why do breaking waves couple momentum better to a flat
surfboard?
2. Given that breaking waves occur in shallow water (presumably
because the lower water is slowed down by the bottom and so the
higher water rushes forward and breaks), would it be possible to surf
in deep water on "ordinary ocean waves" (in the absence of a net
water current or air wind)?
3. I've heard of "rogue waves" occuring in deep water. Could one surf on them?