Re: [Phys-l] surfing

[John Mallinckrodt <ajm@csupomona.edu>]

On Jul 9, 2009, at 12:50 PM, Carl Mungan wrote:

> ... surfers don't seem to change altitude much as they surf.

You want a change in altitude?  Pick a different reference frame.

> Thus, the kinetic energy they acquire ...

What kinetic energy?

(Sorry, Carl.  Just feeling a little ornery today!)

> ... Your description however does helpfully draw attention to the fact
> that a surfer needs to gain a certain amount of speed before the wave
> arrives. How closely they need to match the wave's speed before
> "catching it" is not obvious to me.

Perhaps enough so that falling down the remainder of the wavefront  
can put them into the required equilibrium?

John Mallinckrodt
Cal Poly Pomona