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I have just returned from a session with a colleague who is helping
me to understand general relativity by answering my questions
brilliantly. I'm reading a new book, "Exploring Black Holes:
Introduction to General Relativity" by Edwin F. Taylor and John
Archibald Wheeler. It doesn't try to do all of GR at once (it does
not introduce the Einstein field equations) but it does get one to
the level where some useful calculation can be done. I hope it gets
me there.
Leigh