Re: speed of a water wave

[Herbert H Gottlieb <herbgottlieb@JUNO.COM>]

On Wed, 31 May 2000 17:00:08 -0400 Yvon Jean <phys@NTL.SYMPATICO.CA>
writes:
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> I'm presently teaching the refraction of a water wave but I have not
> come across a good explanation of why a water wave travels faster in
> deep water.  Can anyone provide me with a Web link or a few hints.
> Thank you > Yvon Jean
I'm unable to cite a source now, but I recall learning that particles
of water on the surface travel along the path of a vertical
ellipse as a wave passes by. Particles of water below the surface
travel in similar, but not identical, elliptical patterns that depend of
the depth
of the water where the particles are located.   Where the water is
shallow, particles encounter friction with the bottom and delay the
speed of the wave up to the surface.

Herb Gottlieb from New York City
(Where the ocean waves at Coney Island always move towards the
beach, regardless of the wind direction )